Philly Fashion Week: Strangefruit

Quirky details meet classic construction in Kristin Haskins Simms’ fall collection for Strangefruit.  One of the few local lines not, as Other Emily pointed out, sold at Matthew Izzo, the designer keeps it low-key by selling her pieces via trunk shows throughout the Philadelphia area.  

Her modest approach to the fashion business is mirrored in her personality—she’s probably one of the nicest people I’ve had a phone conversation with in a very long time.  Which is saying something for someone who knows nothing of me other than a) my “professional” voice, which dips below a normal, girlish octave and skips the stutters and b) that I am a member of the media, that dreaded fourth estate.   Not that someone’s personality is anything to base a clothing line on, but….kind of?  I mean, I love Proenza Schouler’s clothes and all, but I’m really more obsessed with being best friends with Jack and Lazaro because they’re just that darn cute.  Anyway, completely irrelevant fashion moguls aside, Simms is adorable.

The collection shows the kind of detailing and inspiration that one would expect from a designer who has worked nearly a year, as Simms has, developing the pieces.  Aptly named “Regal Warrior”, the collection roughly depict different eras of wartime fashion.  From more modern military jackets right down to Elizabethan collars, each piece displays the influence from a time period of combat.  “I mean, the Spanish Armada’s going on, but hey, she looks fierce,” she jokes.

Post-“research” (in quotes because I’m too jealous to admit that watching Elizabeth: The Golden Age on repeat constitutes research) meant choosing fabrics and a color palette, and Simms stuck with the expected neutrals with a dash of eggplant and army green.  The designs themselves are what make Strangefruit so clever.  Unexpected additions seem to be her specialty, and most of the line showcases pleating, draping, and ruffles on classically drawn shapes.  You’ve got the Elizabethan jacket, puff sleeves and all, with an overdrawn ruffle-collared dress underneath.  There’s also the military jacket, with a hi-low hem and extra detailing on the back.  Not too over-the-top, but certainly not boring.  As Simms later declared, “It’s sort of couture.  But not really.”  Ah.  Perfect.

Her show tonight will include 20 different looks with an assortment of different pieces.  “I’m excited.  I’ve sort of been a mad scientist all summer, getting the pieces together, but the response has been great so yeah.  I’m excited.  I’m excited!”  Insert raised decibels here.  Simms doesn’t seem anxious about the show, so much as what it might mean for her line.

“I’d really like to keep it small for now,” she adds.  “I don’t want to get too many larger orders right now.  This is all new to me, and it’s really important to understand the fashion business first.  The underlying question is—can you produce?”

Well, she might not want a Macy’s contract, but hey, Matthew Izzo’s isn’t too far away…