Philadelphia Fashion Week Day 2: Couture Collections

Photo by Meghan Marvin

The pieces that were sent down the runway at last night’s couture show of Philadelphia Fashion Week were not only varied but exciting. A total of eight designers showed last night with the highlights being the flawless geisha-inspired gowns and dresses of Melani Von Alexandria (pictured above), the hooded menswear collection by Ray Vincent and the collection by Mon Ari 1962 which managed to make sequins and skullcaps look like high fashion. A few of my favorite and not-so-favorite picks after the jump.

The subtle details are what made Mon Ari 1962’s collection such an enjoyable experience. This pants suit is a great example of this with the sequin inlays at the inner thigh, fur cuffs, the leather lining on the underside of the collar and the studded skullcaps that I really want in my own collection of accessories!

Ray Vincent’s collection of menswear was full of drama. His use of strong patterns (like plaid and houndstooth), scarves, hoods and thick cowl necks created a feeling of comfortable but powerful elegance. Oftentimes menswear collections can be boring, lack dynamics and be very narrow in their scope of shapes. Ray Vincent’s clothing possessed none of these qualities.

Photo by Meghan Marvin

While I appreciated the attention to detail and intense hand-beading that went into many of the pieces shown by Cory Couture, sometimes a designer needs to learn when too much really is too much. His finale gown (pictured above) is a good example of this. Also, note the hot boys in underwear at the back of the runway! Even though I will be the first to admit that I enjoyed view, having them posted at the back of the runway  wearing boxer briefs by Calvin Klein and Armani Exchange wasn’t the best decision. In fact, for a moment I was confused when they walked out at the top of the show because they clearly were not wearing the designer who had just been announced as the next to come down the runway. I didn’t hate everything Cory Couture sent down the runway though, the black super-mini dress below was one of my favorite looks of the night and kind of reminded me of the studded black dress worn by Beyonce for her Grammy performance.

Photo by Meghan Marvin

Photo by Meghan Marvin

This updated take on the tuxedo by Todd Anthony had the audience going crazy last night. The bold lapels and mix of colors make for a strong statement that is both masculine and artful. I love a good white tuxedo. They are a rarity in the world of mens fashion as they often have the look of prom circa 1987, and that’s never a good thing.

Photos by Meghan Marvin

Here are two more by Melani Von Alexandria because I just couldn’t get enough of her collection. There were subtle cues that were definitely taken from Japanese geisha culture including the deliberate way the models walked the runway, the use of headpieces, and the presence of obi-like sashes with drum bows on the back of many pieces.

Photo by Meghan Marvin

This short little cocktail dress by Ying Edge was the only shining moment in the 10-piece collection. There was a clear exploration of angles and points throughout the pieces shown but the materials were drab and oftentimes the placement of the points wasn’t flattering. The use of pointed hats in conjunction with the drab brown and army green fabrics that were used for the rest of the collection gave the feeling of Peter Pan or Robin Hood. While I found this kind of cute in a costume kind of way, there really isn’t anything couture about sending a band of “merry men” down a runway.

Photo by Meghan Marvin

Lastly, for those of you who were following the show with me via twitter (@PWStyle) this is the army printed parachute I was referring to in last night’s tweets. The gown, by Ke Collection, had a beautiful shape and I loved the gold collar but the material was completely off-target.